“If you were the president of Burma,” a young
man began as he questioned President Obama at a town hall-style event Friday.
The crowd at Yangon University laughed. So did their guest.
“You’re
always popular in somebody else’s country,” Obama replied with a chuckle.
But the
hypothetical question in Rangoon contained a kernel of truth that revealed
itself during his three-day visit to this Southeast Asian nation, which is in
the fitful throes of trying to emerge from a
half-century of authoritarian military rule.
On separate
trips to the opulent presidential palace in Naypyidaw and to the stately
Rangoon villa of Burma’s most famous politician, Obama played the role of de
facto adviser to President Thein Sein and the Nobel laureate, Aung San Suu Kyi,
who remains blocked by constitutional rules from seeking the presidency.
Obama
charted his own path forward for Burma, laying down markers for progress on reforms ranging from protecting religious
minorities to changing the constitution to ensuring a “fair and free” election
next year.
Obama was
careful to emphasize that it was up to the Burmese people, and their elected
leaders, to carry out what he described. But he was unequivocal about the core
values that underscored his vision.
“I expressed
an objective view that some of the current provisions don’t seem to have a
grounding in common sense or precedence,” he said at a news conference with Suu
Kyi, referring to the constitutional provision that bars her from running for
the presidency because her sons are British citizens.
That Obama spoke about a set of American ideals
and the need for other nations to embrace them is not remarkable. He did so
this week at an international economic forum in Beijing and he is expected to do so again in
a major speech about U.S. leadership in Asia from Brisbane, Australia, on
Saturday.
In Burma,
however, the message Obama is delivering — and the role he is playing to
support it — is more personal and tangible than with any other country in the
world.
Burma, as
Thein Sein and Suu Kyi know well, is reliant foremost on the United States, its
geopolitical influence and its economic largesse, to make sure the difficult
reforms withstand immense challenges and, in some cases, outright resistance
within the country.
For Obama,
Burma also represents an important U.S. initiative in statecraft to counter
widening Chinese influence in the region.
The Burmese
president and the democratic opposition leader — despite reports of divisions
between them the Obama administration — each sought this week to minimize signs
of friction and present the picture that they are working together to prod the
nation forward.
Thein Sein,
whose administration has been criticized for stifling reforms and who has been
increasingly isolated in the antiseptic state capital of Naypyidaw, welcomed Obama to the
presidential palace for the first time Thursday night. Obama’s 24-vehicle
motorcade drove along darkened boulevards with no signs of other traffic, passing
elaborate roundabouts and colorful water fountain displays before turning into
the long road leading to the palace. There were no residents on the streets to
watch his arrival.
An enormous white marble palace, looking larger
-- and more opulent -- than the White House, came in sight. The motorcade
crossed over a moat on a bridge with white suspension spokes before pulling up
to the entrance of massive wood-paneled doors.
Thein Sein
greeted him in an enormous state room, with a golden Buddhist throne that
loomed above a pair of golden arm chairs for the two presidents, who met for an
hour.
Afterward, Thein Sein told reporters that they
had a “candid and constructive discussion on some of the solutions and
difficulties and challenges” and he asked for patience for his administration.
Obama
praised the government’s efforts in some areas, including the release of
political prisoners and the reduction of children forced to serve in the
military. But he said the “process is still incomplete,” and raised concerns
about the transparency of next year’s elections.
On Friday, Obama boarded Air Force One for the
40-minute flight to Rangoon. In 2012, the president had chosen that city for
his first visit to Burma, which is also known as Myanmar. He was given a hero’s
welcome two years ago, with thousands of children lining the streets waving
flags of both nations as the presidential motorcade passed by.
That kind of
reception was missing this time, but Rangoon still presented itself, in
contrast to Naypyidaw’s ghostly and gaudy excesses, as warm and alive as the
motorcade wound through the streets.
“When I was
driving through here, everyone had a cell phone,” Obama marveled during the
town hall event. “There were some guys who didn’t even have a shirt, but they
had smart phones,” he added, launching into a dissertation on the merits of
globalism.
When his entourage pulled into Suu Kyi’s
driveway, she stepped out of her home to greet him wearing a turquoise-colored
traditional longyi. They shook hands and he kissed her on the cheek. They
disappeared inside the residence for a private conversation.
Suu Kyi has
been critical of the pace of reform and said at a news conference before the
president’s trip that the United States had been “overly optimistic.” By the
time they emerged an hour later, such talk was over.
“We may have
a different view at times, but that in no way affects our friendship,” she told
reporters assembled on her lawn. “Please don’t worry about any problems between
the United States and those working on democracy in Burma. We all believe in
the same values and all believe in the same principles.”
Obama spoke
of the need to protect the safety of Muslim minorities living in the Rakhine
state, who have been persecuted by the government and are confined to squalid
camps. The president, for the first time, called the Rohingya people by their
ethnic name, which the government has rejected.
“Last time I
stood here, I made a pledge to the people of Burma that if we continued to see
progress reform, ties would grow stronger, and the United States would do
whatever it could to ensure Burma’s success,” Obama said. “In the last two
years we’ve made good on that pledge.”
At the
university, he attempted to drive home that point by answering questions for an
hour in front of hundreds of students at the school, which reopened last year
after student-led protests closed the campus in 1988.
Obama called on a young man who stood up
clutching a piece of paper, on which he had written down his question. As he
fumbled around, Obama reached out and took the document from him.
The
president took a closer look.
“There’s too
many questions on here,” Obama said. “Just ask me one of them. I’ll read the rest.”
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